Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
Lavish renovation of the Savoy (completed 2010) included the Grill room. With its stunning Swarovski chandeliers and tortoiseshell and chrome art deco furnishings, it evokes the hotel’s inter-war glory days with real pzazz (we were affably told we had the Winston Churchill table, from where he could see who else was in the room). It’s now part of the Gordon Ramsay group, a label with which you never know quite what to expect – but in our experience this is a well-run ship.
Service was both charmingly relaxed and very responsive; menus are a blend of the richly traditional (especially the hefty steaks) and inventive, lighter modernity. Lunch and pre-theatre set menus are a West End bargain: from the latter, a salad of golden and ruby beetroot with goat’s curd was beautifully refreshing, and chilled leek and potato soup with poached quail’s egg perfectly balanced. An expert use of the best fresh ingredients, with every flavour just right, enlivened mains of haddock and king prawn fish cake with mustard sauce, and an old Brit favourite, gammon with pineapple and chips.
Wine prices can be frightening, but there’s a fair range of less extravagant bottles. An indulgent treat.
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