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The interior of this Michelin-starred establishment, which was relaunched in late 2019, makes it ideal for having an affair: tactfully placed walls and gauze-covered windows mean that any secret rendezvous is easily shielded from view. It’s carpeted and quiet, but the curtains are chic and the wallpaper is very Designers Guild.
The food, which has French and British leanings, was almost flawless. Seared foie gras was succulent, the richness offset by rhubarb and, ingeniously, biscuit-like gingerbread. A plate of perfectly cooked scallops was balanced by discs of apple and puréed celeriac. Then, a main of honey-glazed duck came red and blushing. It tasted of imagination, from the bird’s shoulder wrapped in savoy cabbage to the segments of grilled, thyme-flecked pear. A warning to the salad-lovers, though: this is all rich, heavy food.
The toffee apple dessert was another highlight. Again, it was creative: a chef-made rendition of the fruit, which came encased in a red jelly. Inside, there was a delectable filling, dotted with chunks of real apple. The only items less than spectacular were the amuse-bouches. But, hey, they’re free anyway.
But this swanky spot hasn’t mastered it all. The muzak in the background was dire, at best, fit for an elevator. And while the waiters were friendly and well-meaning, there were sloppy mistakes (having to be asked twice for the bill, forgetting an order). Still, if it’s fine dining you’ve come for, you’re in the right place.