William Drabble, the executive head chef at this Michelin-starred restaurant, certainly has a bit of pedigree. He earned his first Michelin gong at 26, before spending ten years at Aubergine, where he satisfied the inspectors again to get his hands on another star. It's a feat he has achieved at this St James Hotel and Club restaurant, too.
There's a French slant to the modern-European menu, so expect butter-poached lobster tail with asparagus and sauce maltaise or a boudin of wood pigeon and foie gras alongside baked fillet of red mullet with courgette linguine, sweet pepper sauce and black olive purée, or stuffed morels with potato gnocchi, crispy chicken wings and asparagus.
Afternoon tea is suitably swish, and a varied, fancy breakfast menu is good enough to attract diners beyond those staying in a room upstairs. Lunch menus offer accessibility.