Spice Market
© Ming Tang-Evans
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The notion of offering an entire continent’s cuisines may seem odd, but that’s what Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s London restaurant attempts, echoing his New York Meatpacking District establishment in the somewhat less salubrious environs of Leicester Square… albeit in the highly salubrious W hotel.
Vongerichten’s menu reads like a whirlwind tour of Asia, with the space a plush Asian-themed assembly of dark woods and burnished metals, and the service the formal kind you’d expect at a W. The venue looks pricey, and it is, but £17.50 for an unremarkable chicken curry was unjustified, despite its gorgeous presentation.
In a selection of lunchtime bento boxes, the flavours and textures were confused and indistinct. A dish billed as green papaya salad, charred long beans, tomatoes and cashews came without the beans, which were replaced by copious flecks of an unidentifiable white goo. Lobster summer roll was zesty, yet we struggled to find even a hint of lobster; spiced chicken samosa was bland; and a red curried duck was mistaken for chicken and tasted like a supermarket ready meal.
Odd successes – including a steamed red snapper with shiitake mushrooms, ginger and tarragon that was fresh and perfect – did just enough to save the day.
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