We can only assume that the prices charged at the St Pancras Grand are for the fabulous art deco-style interior (courtesy of Martin Brudnizki) and great views of the glass and steel roof of the train station – sadly, the food (courtesy of Searcys) doesn’t match up to the surroundings.
Perhaps, on our Sunday visit, we should have opted for the roast, as many of our fellow diners did. Instead, we chose cheese and onion soufflé – perfectly cooked, brown and crispy outside, creamy and fluffy within. We should have stopped there.
Barbecued plaice was so small that it only provided a few meagre morsels of fish, and the accompanying vegetables, though fresh, lacked flavour. A dessert of apparently own-made sherbets was awful: the three scoops of pink, purple and pale yellow ice were almost entirely flavourless, though the pink one tasted vaguely (and oddly) of orange. There is a reasonable-value set meal, but ordering à la carte came in at £40 a head (including a glass of very nice pinot) – far too much for a disappointing lunch.