Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 12 2012
Set on an unpromising stretch of the Holloway Road, Tbilisi remains a good-value introduction to the delights of Georgian cookery (a popular cuisine across the former Soviet bloc, but rarely seen in the UK).
Few diners will fail to appreciate khachapuri (soft yeasty flatbread stuffed with cheese) and the intriguingly spiced salads of puréed aubergine, carrot, leeks and beetroot. A mixed plate is ideal for sharing.
The kitchen’s secret is the Georgian spice-mix of khmeli suneli, and the ubiquitous blend of marigold and crushed walnuts combined with fresh coriander – all good for vegetarians. For meat-eaters, warmly spiced lamb stews such as chanakhi (long-braised with tomato and aubergine to tender perfection) are often a better bet than chicken dishes.
Kharcho was disappointing; the soupy stew flavoured with tomato, plum paste and creamy ground walnuts was let down by chunks of chicken with a seemingly reheated taste and texture.
Don’t miss the Georgian wine; the great Kindzmarauli and Khvanchkara are something of an acquired taste with their rich, complex semi-sweetness, but there are also fresh whites like Tsinandali and a lightly fruity Mtatsminda rosé. Like the restaurant itself, they’re a refreshingly different experience.
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