Tentazioni

The decor at Tentazioni is striking, a vivid red that evokes a womb with a view – though the view isn’t why anyone would visit. There’s plenty to recommend, however, about the adventurous range (beetroot gnocchi with gorgonzola and pistachio fondue, anyone?) and attention to detail of the dishes. Mozzarella on white crabmeat with saffron sauce proved more sensational in appearance and texture than in taste, but a classic bruschetta ticked all the right boxes. Roast pork served with dried prunes, wild mushrooms and mustard sauce was moist and flavourful. Yet while roast cod fillets with sautéed spinach were tender and juicy, there was no reference on the lunch menu to the fact that they came with a lobster bisque sauce, a remarkable oversight given what this would mean to those with dietary restrictions. Our meal dragged on a bit and service suffered from a few translation blips but was on the whole charming: a problem with delays in food arriving led to the offer of free wine. Still, Tentazioni feels like a quality experience.