Just off Trafalgar Square, rustic French cooking and a wine list that's an encyclopaedia of organic and biodynamic bottles - highly recommended.
Since Ed Wilson and Oli Barker opened Terroirs in 2008, their business has expanded at a reassuringly steady rate: three new operations (Brawn in 2010, Soif in 2011, the Green Man & French Horn in 2012), each with its own identity but each identifiably part of the family. The careful growth has ensured standards remain high across the board; indeed, five years on from its opening, Terroirs still feels fresh. It’s really two places under one roof. The always crowded ground floor has a casual wine bar feel and a menu to match, focused (though not exclusively) on small plates for sharing. You can sample some of the same dishes in the atmospheric and surprisingly roomy basement, although the menu structure seems designed to guide diners more towards a starter-main-dessert tradition. The kitchen retains its interest in rustic French dishes (a suitably unreconstructed cassoulet, for instance) but isn’t shy of a twist. We loved slow-cooked oxtail with potato gnocchi, and a small plate of black risotto with squid was a delight. The wine list is an encyclopaedia of organic and biodynamic bottles; if you’re a first-timer, order by the glass to give yourself a sense of the astonishing variety offered. Recommended.