With two Inns of Court close by, this area isn’t short on wise guys. But for know-how in his chosen field, executive chef Daniel Veron surely matches his barrister neighbours. Their prices can’t be too different, either – starters here run from £7 for marinated aubergines and bread to around £15 for grilled king prawns or a sausage platter. You’ll pay £8 just for a couple of empanadas. But this is a man (a former consultant to Gaucho) who has his own signature steak cuts. The sense of an old master playing by his own rules is evident also in his left-field parrillada, which brings lamb to the steak-chorizo-morcilla party, plus corn on the cob, humitas and salad. It costs £56 for two, but at least you shouldn’t need sides. Medallón de lomo may have looked pale and uninteresting, bereft of any deep brown caramelising, yet this steak gave near-giddying flavour. The restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously, either, despite that ‘expert’ tag. ‘You sat by the window last time, didn’t you?’ asked a waitress of one couple. There’s expertise in that kind of service too.