The Gantry

  • Restaurants
  • British
David Cleveland
David Cleveland
David Cleveland

Stumbling through the Gantry is something of an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ experience. First, you discover that what appears to be a tiny scruffy bar serving some interesting beers, ciders, cocktails and good coffees. Walk down the narrow staircase and there’s an elegant panelled dining room painted a tasteful shade of National Trust sludge, with ceramic tiled floors and flower-filled glass jugs. Then, further down a quaintly furnished corridor, you enter yet another world: a charming and rustic conservatory overlooking a garden.

But, there’s nothing Mad Hatter’s tea party about the food. It’s good, seasonal, modern British fare cooked and served by a very proficient crew who seem like they might have drifted here from somewhere much smarter. A tiny, pastry-wrapped parcel of deep fried goat’s cheese was just about perfect, as was the sharing antipasti meat platter – artfully piled slivers of fine hams and salamis. Excellently al dente seafood risotto was dense with shellfish, but a quinoa crumble was bland. Puddings were variable too: a chocolate mousse with berries vanished in seconds, but banoffee cheesecake was too sickly to finish. Gantry was packed to the gills on a rainy Friday night, and it does a brisk trade at lunchtime too.

by Veronica Simpson

Venue name: The Gantry
Address: 188 Brockley Road
Opening hours: Mon-Thur 4-11.30pm; Fri 11.30am-11.30pm; Sat 10am-11.30pm; Sun 10am-11pm
Transport: Rail: Brockley
Price: 'All Day' main courses around £13; lunchtime main courses around £7

Average User Rating

5 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:1
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Masumi S

Hot weather plus secret outdoor garden result! Mix with cold wine and let the happiness begin