The Gantry

  • Restaurants
  • British
2 Love It
1/5
David Cleveland
2/5
David Cleveland
3/5
4/5
David Cleveland
5/5
Brockley

Stumbling through the Gantry is something of an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ experience. First, you discover that what appears to be a tiny scruffy bar serving some interesting beers, ciders, cocktails and good coffees. Walk down the narrow staircase and there’s an elegant panelled dining room painted a tasteful shade of National Trust sludge, with ceramic tiled floors and flower-filled glass jugs. Then, further down a quaintly furnished corridor, you enter yet another world: a charming and rustic conservatory overlooking a garden.

But, there’s nothing Mad Hatter’s tea party about the food. It’s good, seasonal, modern British fare cooked and served by a very proficient crew who seem like they might have drifted here from somewhere much smarter. A tiny, pastry-wrapped parcel of deep fried goat’s cheese was just about perfect, as was the sharing antipasti meat platter – artfully piled slivers of fine hams and salamis. Excellently al dente seafood risotto was dense with shellfish, but a quinoa crumble was bland. Puddings were variable too: a chocolate mousse with berries vanished in seconds, but banoffee cheesecake was too sickly to finish. Gantry was packed to the gills on a rainy Friday night, and it does a brisk trade at lunchtime too.

by Veronica Simpson

Venue name: The Gantry
Contact:
Address: 188 Brockley Road
London
SE4 2RL
Opening hours: Mon-Thur 4-11.30pm; Fri 11.30am-11.30pm; Sat 10am-11.30pm; Sun 10am-11pm
Transport: Rail: Brockley
Price: 'All Day' main courses around £13; lunchtime main courses around £7

Average User Rating

4.3 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:1
  • 4 star:2
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|3
1 person listening
Chris W

If you can forgive The Gantry for an occasional lapse into tweeness (dedicating a menu to 'James and Katie's little bump' might have punters throwing up before they've even eaten anything), it's a great, if cramped, place to eat. Its location on a busy road doesn't appear brilliant first, but as you wend your way through a succession of rooms to a tucked-away garden, its charms increase. With a French-inspired menu, and a decent winelist, The Gantry brings seasonal variety and some high-quality cooking. Downsides are a lack of elbow room in the Farrow & Ball dining room, and negotiating your way past the sunglassed boozers who colonise the frontage tables in summer, most of whom look like they'd be happier in the Brockley Barge next door. Let SE4's foodie renaissance continue!

Masumi S

Hot weather plus secret outdoor garden result! Mix with cold wine and let the happiness begin

Howard S

With the temp rising, al fresco dining is the way to go, in my manor this is 'the' place to go, fortunately with everyone footie mad, a bagged a table here, with great service, i highly recommend the Nordic seafood platter, with anchovies, pots of octopus etc on a slate see the pic! All wash down with bottle of chilled white wine!