The Ledbury

  • Restaurants
  • French
Critics' choice
2 Love It
1/7
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Westbourne Grove
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Few haute establishments have the hospitable hum of the Ledbury. Whether it’s due to the off-centre location, the Aussie input, or diners’ sheer delight in securing a table, this former pub remains top-tier for gustatory good times. British ingredients – Hampshire buffalo milk curd, smoked eel, Cumbrian lamb – line up alongside delicacies such as Tokyo turnips, Bresse chicken and black truffle, but it’s chef Brett Graham’s clever contemporary treatment of them that sets the place apart. Best go for the set lunch or commit to the mesmerising £105 tasting menu; at £80 for three courses, the carte does not have the other menus’ winning sense of value, particularly if you choose the simpler ingredient-led dishes. A spring plate of creamed Jersey Royals with morels cooked in tea would have been a delightful inclusion in a dégustation, but served as a starter was not sufficiently above mashed potato to justify the outlay, even though the mushrooms were sublime. Ledbury signatures, however, are consistently thrilling – particularly the flame-grilled mackerel with pickled cucumber, celtic mustard and shiso; and, well, all the desserts. The wine list is personable with a particularly good choice of sweet wines by the glass, plus great beers from Australia, the US and even Notting Hill. 

Venue name: The Ledbury
Contact:
Address: 127 Ledbury Road
London
W11 2AQ
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2pm Tue-Sat; noon-2.30pm Sun. Dinner served 6.30-10.15pm Mon-Sat; 7-10pm Sun
Transport: Tube: Westbourne Park tube
Price: Main courses (lunch) £32-£34. Set lunch (Mon-Sat) £30 2 courses, £35 3 courses; (Sun) £50 3 courses. Set dinner £80 3 courses. Set meal £105 tasting menu (£175 incl wine); £95 vegetarian tasting menu (£165 incl wine)