Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
With its cultivated luxury and discreet (read: hard to find) doorway, the Square fits right into Conduit Street’s moneyed aesthetic. In the hands of Philip Howard and Robert Weston, its food has been counted among London’s best for more than a decade, and we have regularly been impressed by the complexity and mastery of flavours.
This time round, though, we encountered a rather average set lunch, which, even taking its pricing into account, wasn’t a brilliant shop window for the à la carte. The best dish was a dramatic squid ink raviolo; the other starter, a slice of foie gras terrine with bean salad, was actively uninteresting. Mains, of cod with summer vegetable broth and potato purée, and lamb with borlotti beans, both exhibited first-rate ingredients and skills, but again failed to excite.
The large room, decorated in shades of brown, is comfortable rather than directional, with well-spaced round tables draped with white linen, and cushioned chairs; it was half full when we visited. The wine list, from a carefully built-up cellar, offers little below £45 in 89 pages that concentrate on France’s premium regions.
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