Tinello

Time Out says

Thu Jun 14 2012

Tinello’s contemporary Italian food is still pulling in the crowds – and not just from Kensington or Belgravia. The dark, industrial interior is fitted out with exposed brick walls and hanging metal table lamps, contrasting with the relaxed atmosphere that brothers Federico and Max Sali (formerly head chef and sommelier at Locanda Locatelli) have created.

The list of primi is sprinkled with a few less common ingredients, such as nettle pappardelle with duck ragù; or vibrant, green borage risotto packed with piquant, salty pecorino cheese. Another primo of own-made spelt tagliatelle and subtly seasoned wild mushrooms offered just the right amount of resistance in the pasta.

From the fish-heavy list of secondi, sweet-fleshed and succulent salt-baked sea bream sat slightly at odds with its avocado, almond and tomato accompaniment. Roast duck breast had also been skilfully cooked, though its orange sauce was a little sweet.

The staff were attentive throughout the evening and allowed us to stay long past our two-hour slot to enjoy a delicious glass of Amaro Averna digestif. Tinello’s wine list also deserves a mention, for value (bottles start at £13.50) and variety.