Two Brothers Fish Restaurant

Time Out says

Fri Oct 19 2012

An appropriately named north London institution, run by Mel and Nari Atwal, that feels as comfortable and familiar as a much-loved sofa. The New England-inspired interior is looking more shabby than chic these days, but staff are wonderfully cosseting to harassed parents, and are happy to entertain children for a few minutes while mum and dad try to eat.

Specials such as chickpea soup, avocado and artichoke salad, moules marinière, and monkfish and scallop ragoût provide diversion for regulars, but most are here for the main event: deep-fried fish fillets that stretch right off the plate. Battered is good, matzo better. The fat chips were a touch pale on our visit but lip-smacking nonetheless. Fish are delivered daily from Billingsgate: you’ll find all the basics plus premium lines best grilled (dover sole, halibut steak and whole sea bass and bream).

There’s a good choice of seafood starters (cod roe in butter, sardines with herbs and garlic, jellied eels), and a few uninspiring desserts (bread and butter pudding, Irish cream cheesecake) – but so what? We can’t imagine anyone having room to fit them in.