Umu

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Restaurants and cafés

14-16 Bruton Place

Luxury

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Time Out says

Mon Jul 9 2012

The full Kyoto-style dining experience that Umu offers doesn’t come cheap at £100 a pop for the tasting menu. But if you’ve never tried it before, the succession of cured, raw, fried, simmered and grilled dishes – all intricately presented on pretty plates and finished off with rice or sushi – is definitely worth a whirl. Otherwise, there are sushi, sashimi and à la carte options to deliberate over, or you could go for one of the more reasonably priced set lunches.

The four compartments in our lacquered bento box held crisp prawn tempura, cured fish with lightly pickled vegetables, some seriously good wild salmon sashimi, and tender simmered duck with pumpkin. The clear soup accompanying the bento was first-rate (salty, savoury, smoky and packed with Asian mushrooms), as was the innovative white asparagus sorbet that followed. Everything was rounded off with a toasty cup of genmaicha tea and a plate of petits fours that included delicate yuzu marshmallows.

At night, we’ve found Umu’s dark interior and atmosphere a little austere; during the day, it is lighter, more relaxed and even the chefs are up for a chat.

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Address:
Umu 14-16 Bruton Place
London
W1J 6LX

Phone:
020 7499 8881
Website:
www.umurestaurant.com
Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 6-11pm Mon-Sat
Transport:
Tube: Bond Street or Green Park tube
Price:
Main courses £13-£57. Set lunch £25-£45. Set meal £100
Map
1. Umu
  - 14-16 Bruton Place
    London
    W1J 6LX
  - 020 7499 8881
  - www.umurestaurant.com
  - 51.511341,-0.144371

Categories:
Food and drink
Facilities:
Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. General facilities. Private rooms
Occasions:
Wow factor. Business. Eating out. Creative cooking. Fine dining. Romantic
Type of event:
Parties

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Comments & ratings

(2 ratings)

Umu is a financial commitment (at least for dinner), but the quality and attention is certainly there. We were told to go there by a friend from Kyoto - what other endorsement do you really need? But I wish he was there to order for us - the menu was somewhat unfamiliar, and the kaiseki was, well, £100 a head. We opted for a selection of sushi and sashimi as well as a couple mains to share. The house sushi was somewhat of a let-down in my opinion (the fois gras was seared until tough, the mushroom on top didn't enhance the flavour and the case tasted somewhat stale) but the sashimi platter was stunning (it was subject to the inspection of an officious-looking petite Japanese woman prior to serving). The smoked eel - delicate, beautiful - and the desserts - possibly the best I've ever had anywhere, which was unexpected. I do somewhat regret not going for the fixed menu - the women next to us went for it. They also topped it up with three pieces of caviar sushi at £68 a pop (or so we thought we heard), so it was clear they were in a different financial league to us (as if the Chanel didn't already give it away). Even so, the service we got was just as good, and the waitress even anticipated that we had no idea how to serve and eat the homemade tofu. Getting to some point, if you go, just remember it's at least £600 to fly to Japan. This is arguably the most authentic place you will find in London. This is also a fine dining experience in Mayfair, complete with highly attentive staff.

Lydia Fri Jan 4
Rated as: 4/5
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I had diner again at Umu, and it confirmed my opinion: very average. Nice setup, extensive sake list, but sushis are so so. The traditional ones are ok, but not fantastic. The modern ones are disappointing. In particular, never order fois gras sushis or aburis, they arrive cold on your dish (even if at sushi bar). Starters are fine, but nothing fantastic. Main courses vary in quality. When I mentioned to the manager that I thought the diner tonight was so so, he asked whether it was because I had to pay the bill !! Poor guy... I have been to places in Japan where the bill was a multiple of Umu's, and the food was much better. I also have been to places in London for a fraction of Umu's, and the food was also much better. Honestly, I think Kiku next door is less posh, but a much better food quality.

Francois Fri Dec 2 2011
Rated as: 2/5
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