Pétrus

A room enveloped in shades of pearlescent pink and dusky grey, with a spectacular crimson extrusion at its middle – it’s unclear if Gordon Ramsay intended to make his Knightsbridge restaurant so womb-like, but that’s the effect. And it’s not a bad thing: the chef shows his caring side in other ways here – with service, food and an overall experience that has remained near-perfect since the place opened in April 2010.

That red centrepiece is an open ‘cellar’, holding some of the extensive and indulgent wine list that reaches price levels few can contemplate. However, Ramsay realises his name draws those on a salaryman’s salary too, so it’s possible to eat and drink here with value. The set lunch still has a few of the luxe ingredients that characterise the carte and tasting menus: asparagus, aged beef, foie gras.

Food here is rich, for sure, but it’s plated with a light touch: roast cod and crushed potatoes rich in olive oil came with a punchy accompaniment of cornichons and brown shrimps; and a saddle of rabbit was sharpened by peas and mint oil. Special mention to the fine cheese board, which is a no-supplement option on the £35 three-course set lunch.