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The Delaunay

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55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB Full details & map

Brasserie: European

 

Time Out says   19 Users say 4/5 Rate it

Posted: Dec 21 2011

Comparisons with The Wolseley, London's iconic and perennially popular brasserie, are inevitable. The Delaunay is also a 'grand café' in the Continental mould, and the same owners created and run both.

Unlike its decade-older sibling, this newcomer is low-ceilinged and almost low-key, it also has a separate next-door café and takeaway. But from the moment you're greeted by the bowler-hatted doorman, to the perfectly presented desserts and cakes hailing from mittel-Europe (Delaunay serves what must be the best sachertorte in London), there's no doubting which family tree this particular brasserie sprang from.

The same things that make the The Wolseley such a winner also resonate here. The rooms have a grandeur that brings to mind Edwardian clubs, the Orient Express and intellectual gatherings. The service on my visits was as polished as the counter tops. The room had more than its fair share of celebrities, too, if you care about that sort of thing ('Don't look now, but it's Alan Yentob at the next table!'). But most of all, the menu evokes French salons, the Austro-Hungarian Empire the Weimar Republic, when grand cafés were the meeting place of Europe's bourgeoisie.

Just as we're looking to Germany and France to save Europe, it seems appropriate that old-style Germanic dishes are also seeing a renaissance. While The Wolseley's menu had a few German classics, The Delaunay takes it further.

Tarte flambée is a dish from Alsace, called Flammkuchen by the border region's German speakers. The version here is as thin as a crispbread, but topped like a pizza with smoked bacon (not the more usual lardons) and shallots cooked to softness; piping hot, it's a great appetiser.

Choucroute is another Alsatian dish, a generous helping of warm sauerkraut served with German-style sausages, salted meats and pork charcuterie, a hearty, wintery dish with salt and pork the dominant flavours.

Wiener schnitzel, boneless veal beaten to a thin layer with a mallet then breadcrumbed and fried, appears in every mid-twentieth-century cookbook but fell out of fashion in the 1970s. The version here would put a smile on Sigmund Freud's stern face - but probably not as much as the Salzburg soufflé, with voluptuous curves and quivering mounds as salacious as any fantasy from the psychoanalyst's couch.

Breakfast at The Wolseley is a revered affair and something every Londoner should try once. Here, the experience is very similar and upholds the idea that the morning meal is a ceremony that can become the highlight of the day. Viennoiserie is perfect; the large menu also offers porridge, pancakes, eggs every way, muesli, granola, full English… and, of course, they also serve afternoon tea, whch we've reviewed here.

Part of the joy of The Delaunay is that you're treated with equal decorum if you're a big spender, a celeb, or just popping in for Welsh rarebit or hot chocolate. It's a real treat of a place.

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The Delaunay details

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Address

The Delaunay

55 Aldwych WC2B 4BB

Transport Covent Garden or Temple tube, or Charing Cross tube/rail

Telephone

020 7499 8558

The Delaunay website

Breakfast served 7-11.30am Mon-Fri; 8-11am Sat. Brunch served 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Tea served 3-6.30pm daily. Meals served 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun

Main courses £6.50-£27.50. Cover £2. Dinner for two with wine and service: around £120

Credit cards AmEx, MC, V

Facilities

Babies and children welcome ( crayons; high chairs; nappy-changing facilities ), Booking advisable, Separate rooms for parties ( seating 8, 14 and 24 ), Disabled ( toilet )

The Delaunay map

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Comments & ratings 4/5 (Average of 19 ratings)

By Suzi Jarman - Mar 25 2012
5/5

Best food ever and service....Such a special night for us and treat!!....we will be back for my birthday..Thank you all :-)) So lovely to see such a happy concierge greeting us :-) 10/10 :-))))))

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Zeynep Lioutyi
By Zeynep - Mar 17 2012
5/5

Best newcomer, my new favourite, great soups especially their goulash!

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By Suze - Mar 9 2012

The Delaunay COUNTER is wonderful- simple food attractively presented and reasonably priced in nice surroundings with helpful and friendly staff. there is nowhere like it, more's the pity, because it is ordinary. Ordinary in the sense that everything is done simply and well and as it should be. And fabulous cakes too.

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Rachel Chee
By Rachel - Mar 8 2012
4/5

I went on Sunday afternoon and it was very busy. The Roast Rib of Beef and Grill Calf's liver are both very nice.

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By Lucy - Mar 5 2012
3/5

I took my mum to the Delauney on Sunday for an early mothers day afternoon tea. We arrived in good time for our reservation at 3.30 pm. We were told our table wasn't yet ready which wasn't a big concern although I did notice an awful lot of people milling around in the bar. 40 minutes later we still hadn't been seated and I was starting to feel a bit embarrassed. The front of house were apologetic in a fairly vague way and didn't seem willing to provide any kind of compensation. A complementary drink would not have gone amiss! When we were finally seated the tea was very good but I feel that the experience was really let down by the long wait. I have been to the Wolsely on a number of occasions and never had any difficulty. I think the Delauney will need to up their game a bit if they are going to compete!

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By Paul Bog - Mar 5 2012
5/5

fantastic meal. Great service. Excellent wine list.

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By Sherri Shahbou - Mar 3 2012

The food was absolutely delicious and although service can sometimes seem to lack, it still deserves a 5 star rating!

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By Tom J - Mar 3 2012
2/5

Overrated. The service was absolutely terrible, and the food both expensive and unremarkable.

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By M. R. W - Feb 20 2012
3/5

Had a lovely lunch at The Delaunay service was dreadful, have eaten at The
Wolseley a few times service has always been great

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By Hem - Feb 19 2012
5/5

An absolutely wonderful evening. My boyfriend and I went for a lovely romantic meal and it's the best restaurant we've been to. The food was cooked to perfection and the service was impeccable.

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By Londoner1980 - Feb 19 2012
4/5

We had brunch here on Sunday. We hadn't booked, but were advised that if we arrived at 11am, we could be seated at the front of the restaurant in the lounge area. The eggs Benedict and Florentine were both delicious and the service was good. £45 for brunch for 2 isn't bad, but I imagine its better to come for dinner and sit in the main room.

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By James - Feb 5 2012
5/5

We had as close to a perfect meal here as I can imagine. The food was delicious, I'd particularly recommend the Choucroute but everyone was pleased with their meals, and the decor is beautiful. Best of all was the service; the gentleman who served us couldn't have been nicer. I can't wait to find an excuse to go again.

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Sophie Lewis
By Sophie - Jan 30 2012
5/5

Had afternoon tea here and it was absolutely exquisite. Perfect, simple sandwiches with delicious fillings (we were offered top ups when they ran out too). Then an assortment of little cakes and pastries that were classic but with an innovative twist (e.g a pink and green battenburg featuring apple). Topped up with perfect, warm scones and fine tea blends. If the food wasn't luxurious enough then the decor, service and overall ambience truly makes you feel like royalty.

For £21 a head it's a great value treat - we didn't need to eat for the rest of the day!

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By Jubbles - Jan 26 2012
3/5

Six of us attended a late afternoon Saturday lunch here. I really wanted to like the Delaunay but left disappointed. The service was slow and unattentive, it took 20 mins to get the bill. There seemed to be lots of staff but they were somehow elusive. The food was mostly ok, but not excellent, and the veg accompanying my char grilled fish were too salty to eat. To top it off, found the chairs really uncomfortable. It wasn't a cheap meal, and I didn't feel that overall it was value for money. I won't rush back.

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By S. Jay-Taylor - Jan 17 2012

Your map reference is completely wrong. The Delaunay is on the corner of Drury Lane, opposite the Aldwych Theatre, not on the corner of Houghton St. on the other side of Kingsway, which is where you've positioned it.

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