This original branch of Cây Tre gave many Hoxtonites their first taste of phở and helped to crank up London’s Vietnamese bandwagon. At the helm is Hiếu Bùi, the godfather of London’s Vietnamese food movement (he also runs the Kêu chain and another branch of Cây Tre in Soho). When it comes to phở the signature bone marrow version is particularly notable; the bowl comes spectacularly topped with a marrowbone, which has been cooked in broth, then grilled under a robata. The beautifully clear broth is made by simmering beef bones for 24 hours. This is flavoured with an accomplished balance of spices including cinnamon and star anise. For a deep dive into authentic Northern Vietnamese cuisine, the Hanoi platter (bún đậu mắm tôm) is legit. It comes with blood sausage and a fermented shrimp dipping sauce.

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