Golden Hind

Like the vicars of a long-established parish church, the owners of the Golden Hind are displayed on a roll of honour, dating back to 1914. The current Greek family (at the tiller since 2002) has recently expanded the business into the neighbouring premises, where plate-glass windows and cream floor tiles create a bright if slightly anodyne space. In the original section, black and white photos of old London and a splendid art deco deep-fryer (which is now used to store cutlery) are pleasingly fitting.

Customers range from 'twin-set and pearls' pensioners pecking at their weekly skate wing, to construction workers wolfing down rock salmon and chips during their breaks. Own-made fish cakes feature on the short list of starters, but most punters head straight for the battered fish (all species available are offered steamed too). Golden-clothed plaice arrived brilliant white and almost wobbly in its impeccable freshness. We readily forgave the odd bone. Chips, hot from the fryer, and mushy peas were prosaic in comparison. Finish, if you have room, with a steamed pudding wallowing in a sea of custard.