Karahi King

A kerfuffle of school children pushed their way into Karahi King, lining up at the counter, eager for their takeaway lunch of kebab-filled nan bread. It would seem this well-worn local favourite is keen on fostering its future clientele. An environmental health inspection of the premises appeared to be under way during our visit, but staff need have few worries there; this is a spick and span operation with easy-wipe tables, new blonde-wood chairs and a well-run open kitchen. Here, atop furious gas burners, rest KK's raison d'être: capacious wok-like karahi pans, ready to accommodate any number of ingredients and masala mixes. A karahi methi chicken was wonderfully tangy with fresh leafy fenugreek, while a starter of masala fish consisted of two flaky chunks of well-marinated cod clothed in a light, spicy batter. A notch down in class was some sloppy tarka dahl topped with powdered masala, and a keema nan of almost omelette-like consistency. But jeera rice, nutty with freshly toasted cumin, was a fine dish, and overall the meal was a pleasure to eat. Staff were prompt, but they get more of a workout at weekends and for dinner.