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Gleaming glass panels, glossy black tiles and crisp table linen set the scene for upmarket dining at Southall's smartest restaurant. The dishes are mainly North Indian, but menu specialities such as nyama choma (smoky lamb ribs, much loved for their lemony zing) have an African twist. Deep-fried mini patties of grated paneer, pounded peas and chopped fenugreek had a tangy tease of peppery flavour that worked well with the sweetness of tamarind chutney, but a main course of chicken curry simmered with slivers of gourd was let down by an oily masala that rather overpowered the fruit. Disappointingly, the very same spice base reappeared in a chickpea curry, and although the breads were excellent, we felt Mahdu's fell short elsewhere - the service, for example, could do with being more confident and less obsequious.
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