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Enter Mandarin Palace and it can seem as if the owner has had a field day shopping in a Shanghai emporium, what with the assorted Chinese vases, lanterns and screens.
The menu offers several set options from £24, with dishes such as shredded veal with coriander in a bird's nest providing a little diversion. We tucked into some praiseworthy dim sum, starting with comforting grilled pork dumplings with a rice vinegar dip, followed by a delightful fried turnip paste with spiky XO sauce. The kitchen fluffed its lines, however, with dreadfully chewy spare ribs and black bean sauce.
In contrast, we enjoyed the sweet and spongy water-chestnut paste so much that a scuffle with chopsticks broke out for the last remaining piece. Over lunch, keep your eyes peeled and you might spot a few diners sporting the sort of fake tans inspired by The Only Way is Essex.
During our stay, service was curt, and Gants Hill roundabout is hardly a beauty spot - but the appetising food quickly made us forget the downsides.
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What is 'following'?020 8550 7661
Lunch served noon-4pm Mon-Sat. Dinner served 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Thur; 6.30pm-midnight Fri, Sat. Meals served noon-11.30pm Sun. Dim sum served noon-4pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun
Main courses £8.50-£30. Dim sum £2.50-£4.50. Set meal £24 per person (minimum 2); £29 per person (minimum 4)
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Separate room for parties ( seats 50 ), Takeaway service; delivery service ( over £20 within 2-mile radius )
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