Taqueria

Great Mexican food, whether haute cuisine or cowboy grub, relies on good, smoky chillies, authentic herbs and top-quality fresh ingredients.

As Taqueria is owned by the Cool Chile Company, Britain's premier importer of Mexican ingredients, it has a head start on the competition.

The deal is sealed by a cheerful dining room - bright from floor-to-ceiling windows, and decorated with old Mexican film posters - and the ethical arsenal of free-range eggs and meat, and organic dairy products, making this an excellent little spot.

Among the selection of traditional street snacks, sope is outstanding: a fried nest of ground maize topped with refried beans, crumbled cheese and own-made chorizo.

Tacos carnitas featured wonderfully tender slow-cooked pork, green salsa, pickled jalapeño and sharp onion. Tacos with garlicky grilled prawns and smooth guacamole gained great depth from a smoky chilli chipotle garnish.

As you might guess from the low prices, dishes are modest in size, which should leave room for the delicious desserts. Fried plantain with ice-cream and cajeta (goat's milk toffee) is the best take on a banana split we've seen.

Drinks include aguas frescas, tequilas, Mexican bottled beers, assorted margaritas and other cocktails, and own-made Mexican hot chocolate (with cinammon and almonds). There are special menus at lunchtimes and for children.