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Arbutus

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63-64 Frith Street, W1D 3JW Full details & map

Restaurant: Modern European

 
© Ming Tang Evans

Time Out says   1 Users say 4/5 Rate it

Posted: Oct 17 2011

The trio of restaurants run by Anthony Demetre and Will Smith - the others are Wild Honey (Modern European) and Les Deux Salons (French) - are emblematic of a certain buzzy, modern, metropolitan style of dining and creative cooking.

This original Soho base attracts crowds of media lunchers and passers-by. Restrained minimalist decor seems to amplify the chatter; service can be uncoordinated, but is bright and friendly. On our visit the food lacked the expected pzazz.

The menu suggests full-on flavours, with gutsy offerings such as pigs' trotters and tripe, but ingredients were inconsistent. Poached egg with wild mushrooms, peas and parma ham was a dainty little pot, yet lacked flavour. And in a salad of green beans, white peach and almond, only the fruit was at all memorable.

A main of slow-cooked lamb with cannellini beans, apricot and almonds was also unbalanced, as the sweet fruit and fragrantly nutty beans weren't matched by the bland (but tender) meat. Cod with chickpeas, chorizo and grilled fennel was also a mix of fine (chorizo, chickpeas) and a bit dull (fish, fennel). A big plus, however, is the wine list, with all wines available in 250ml carafes, to encourage tasting.

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Arbutus details

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Address

Arbutus

63-64 Frith Street W1D 3JW

Transport Tottenham Court Road tube

Telephone

020 7734 4545

Arbutus website

Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Dinner served 5-11pm Mon-Thur; 5-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 5.30-10.30pm Sun

Main courses £14-£19.95. Set lunch £16.95 3 courses. Set dinner (5-6.30pm) £18.95 3 courses

Credit cards AmEx, MC, V

Facilities

Babies and children admitted ( high chairs ), Booking advisable

Arbutus map

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Comments & ratings 4/5 (Average of 1 rating)

By archie marsh - Jan 25 2011

Nice, had the tripe; partner had a chewy steak but they gave us a free tarte tatin in compensation. Other partner's bouillabaisse was quite rich. All palatable and reasonable for the area.

Contrary to other posters I enjoyed the lack of music. Means you can hear the conversation.

Well priced quality restaurant for the area.

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By Nick St John - Jan 1 2011

First time diner at Arbutus - food and service was very good, friendly and informative. Pig's head starter had fantastic flavours. My wife had the Cod and vegetables (need to find out the recipe for those vegetables - superb) A little light music in the background would add to the atmosphere.

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By Cian Kenneth - Sep 7 2010

Another fine evening at Arbutus.. Fantastic food and great service. Starters were a bit tardy, but waiters were gentlemenlike and cannot complement the food enough.

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By Paul Linehan - Aug 30 2010

The food here is incredible - the chilled carrot and pink grapefruit soup is truly outstanding....

Also the service is fantastic....

One slight suggestion would be to perhaps create a little bit of atmosphere in the place.......maybe a hint of background music???

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