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Arbutus

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63-64 Frith Street, W1D 3JW Full details & map

Restaurant: Modern European

 
© Ming Tang Evans

Time Out says   3 Users say 4/5 Rate it

Posted: Oct 17 2011

The trio of restaurants run by Anthony Demetre and Will Smith - the others are Wild Honey (Modern European) and Les Deux Salons (French) - are emblematic of a certain buzzy, modern, metropolitan style of dining and creative cooking.

This original Soho base attracts crowds of media lunchers and passers-by. Restrained minimalist decor seems to amplify the chatter; service can be uncoordinated, but is bright and friendly. On our visit the food lacked the expected pzazz.

The menu suggests full-on flavours, with gutsy offerings such as pigs' trotters and tripe, but ingredients were inconsistent. Poached egg with wild mushrooms, peas and parma ham was a dainty little pot, yet lacked flavour. And in a salad of green beans, white peach and almond, only the fruit was at all memorable.

A main of slow-cooked lamb with cannellini beans, apricot and almonds was also unbalanced, as the sweet fruit and fragrantly nutty beans weren't matched by the bland (but tender) meat. Cod with chickpeas, chorizo and grilled fennel was also a mix of fine (chorizo, chickpeas) and a bit dull (fish, fennel). A big plus, however, is the wine list, with all wines available in 250ml carafes, to encourage tasting.

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Arbutus details

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Address

Arbutus

63-64 Frith Street W1D 3JW

Transport Tottenham Court Road tube

Telephone

020 7734 4545

Arbutus website

Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Dinner served 5-11pm Mon-Thur; 5-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 5.30-10.30pm Sun

Main courses £14-£19.95. Set lunch £16.95 3 courses. Set dinner (5-6.30pm) £18.95 3 courses

Credit cards AmEx, MC, V

Facilities

Babies and children admitted ( high chairs ), Booking advisable

Arbutus map

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Comments & ratings 4/5 (Average of 3 ratings)

By Sarah - Mar 29 2012
5/5

This place is awesome. I've been so many times now i've lost count. What makes it is the incredible service, even on the second time i went, the waiters remembered me and my partner, and everything comes with a smile. On top of that, they are all so well informed on every bit of the menu it's incredibly impressive. You can be sure that they know what they're talking about, and will give you honest opinions on anything you ask.

Then comes the food... I've not once been let down. Everything I've had has been delicious, well cooked, well prepared and wonderful.

Wine- good range, and on top of that you can get a 500ml carafe of pretty much everything on offer, for the same price as 2/3 of the bottle would be. Meaning you can chop and change wines depending on your course if you fancy. And always ask your waiter- they'll give perfect advice, and never very expensive ones

Overall this place just has the perfect mix of great food, great service, but without the snotty attitude that so many places of the same standard have

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By Esther - Mar 5 2012
2/5

Went to Arbutus last weekend with my boyfriend. And it was OK. Really OK. In fact this whole place just sits in this sort of flannel like state of mediocrity.
We are shown to our tables, the restaurant interior and atmosphere is quite nice. The staff are pleasant and helpful with the wine menu. They bring round some decent bread- no salt and not enough butter (maybe I am just greedy!). There is so background music- I like no music and I think a restaurant has to actually be quite brave to do it. No music is far superior to bad music. Which incidentally, restaurant music usually is.

Food:
We both had the much talked about mackerel burger to start. It was ok. It was edible, I was hungry so I ate it. I mean it did not offend me, but it could have done with some more seasoning, the texture was a bit spongey too. It tasted quite fresh. All OK. But not setting the world alight or anything.

Main course: I had the rabbit with rabbit cottage pie, endive and another green vegetable (?). Again, it was ok. A little dry but not enough to take back, again could have done with some seasoning. I was hoping for sumptious comforting cottage pie and rabbit and it was all a bit measured, neat and boxed in every way possible.

My boyfriend had a steak. It was OK. BUT..listen up folks. The dauphonoise potatoes he had with his steak were just the best things I have eaten in a long time. Just creamy and perfectly salty and garlicky, soft with just enough bite and that nice skin on the top. These were good. Go to this place and order these potatoes. Three of them. Then leave.

Anyway, then had the apple tarte tatin. I am particular about pudding. I am particularly particular about tarte tatin. Decent amount of caramel, no soggy pastry but not too dry either and the caramel should clump up a bit around the edges with a good dollop of vanilla cream or ice cream. This was not tarte tatin. This was stewed apples on pastry with a bit of caramel which had not been cooked for long enough. The pastry did not have that buttery warmness which you expect when ordering this very special pudding.

This place has a Michelin star. I do not see how. Really do not get it. I think its actually just quite OK. If I went with the expectations which I would have when going to a high street chain French bistro-ey brasserie/gastro restaurant (like chain Cote or something similar) I would not have felt so dissapointed. In fact would have thought it was perfectly fine. As it is, its 'okishness' irriritated me. Alot.

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By archie marsh - Jan 25 2011

Nice, had the tripe; partner had a chewy steak but they gave us a free tarte tatin in compensation. Other partner's bouillabaisse was quite rich. All palatable and reasonable for the area.

Contrary to other posters I enjoyed the lack of music. Means you can hear the conversation.

Well priced quality restaurant for the area.

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By Nick St John - Jan 1 2011

First time diner at Arbutus - food and service was very good, friendly and informative. Pig's head starter had fantastic flavours. My wife had the Cod and vegetables (need to find out the recipe for those vegetables - superb) A little light music in the background would add to the atmosphere.

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By Cian Kenneth - Sep 7 2010

Another fine evening at Arbutus.. Fantastic food and great service. Starters were a bit tardy, but waiters were gentlemenlike and cannot complement the food enough.

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By Paul Linehan - Aug 30 2010

The food here is incredible - the chilled carrot and pink grapefruit soup is truly outstanding....

Also the service is fantastic....

One slight suggestion would be to perhaps create a little bit of atmosphere in the place.......maybe a hint of background music???

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