Cambio de Tercio

The menu at this beautiful, highbrow tapas bar is the stuff of foodie novels. It all sounds better in Spanish, of course, but who doesn't feel a little bit magic-realist - and hungry - when they read of Basque-style crab ravioli with leek emulsion, sea asparagus and Galician seaweed. Such dishes are not only gorgeously presented, but tap deeply into Spain's many regional cuisines and serve as a showcase for the best food that the peninsula offers.

Portions are on the small side, so take it slowly and enjoy the art-filled, brightly painted room, tranquil atmosphere and the whisperings of the posh clientele - rich Spanish residents, embassy types and holidaying Argentines. The classics - patatas bravas, padrón peppers, pata negra ham (£22.50 for a few small slices!) - are all a cut above the usual you'll find, and the house tortilla ('deconstructed chorizo omelette') is an audacious, flavour-filled borrowing from El Bulli. The oxtail is not the hefty slab of black meat you'd probably get in a Madrid eaterie, but a carefully caramelised allusion to the real thing. Even the desserts are experimental and ethereal: Bombay Sapphire gelée and tonic water sorbet with lime foam was bold, but oh so brief.

That's what Cambio de Tercio is all about: suggestive, seductive, stylised food. One for a very special occasion, when you've £100 to spare.