Greenhouse

The Greenhouse manages that elusive trick of maintaining an unwavering commitment to the standards expected at this level of dining. The restrained and discreet room allows the food to take centre stage.

Cooking is French in principle. On our visit Lyon-born chef Antonin Bonnet was still there (he is departing in 2012). His playful dishes might see scallops with lime and honey, or Brittany chicken given an almost Thai twist with purple basil, grapefruit and shallots. The kitchen has confidence enough in its ability and sourcing to send out the likes of an artichoke and broad bean salad garnished only with a light vinaigrette, smoked quails' eggs and peppery leaves.

Besuited and perfectly mannered staff are adept at reading a table and customising service accordingly; oenophiles will get to know the sommelier well as they get to grips with the spectacular and award-winning 93-page wine list.

Differently priced menus make for a real mix of diners: sober-suited Mayfair businessmen won't expect much change from £100 with the à la carte, but the set lunch, at £29 for three courses plus pre- and post- freebies, makes an excellent introduction to the consistently faultless Greenhouse experience.