Le Vacherin

This pair of dining rooms recreates a classic bistro look for its clientele of well-heeled locals. Parisian prints, white tablecloths, mirrors and draped curtains set the scene for some traditional French cooking. Evenings are well populated, but on our Saturday daytime visit, the restaurant was almost empty - and yet the vibe remained relaxed and the French service team friendly and low-key.

Dishes varied in quality. Smoked duck breast, although tender and well matched with apple and celeriac remoulade, was let down by a shortfall of shredded apple. Cream of pea soup was too heavy in texture for a first course. Things picked up with mains. Succulent steak, accompanied by a plump, wine- and stock-braised shallot, and crisp chips, was outstanding for its sticky reduction of thyme-infused jus. Almost as impressive, fried sea bream fillet topped with buttery brown shrimps was tastefully contrasted with the salty bite of samphire. Desserts are star performers. Our favourite: dinky profiteroles filled with custardy cream, served with full-flavoured coffee ice-cream and warm caramel sauce. Despite occasional hiccups, this neighbourhood gem is great value.