Manna

A well-dressed gentleman approaches with clipboard: 'Do you have a reservation?' We didn't. No problem, but it underlines that Manna is a restaurant rather than a café. Still, there are plenty of people who come during the day for one-dish meals - a rich plate of tomatoey pasta, say, or vegetable tart made with cashew cheese.

The decor suits dressing up or down. Etched glass by the door echoes the silhouetted trees and birds of the wallpaper inside; a small, shimmering rear dining room continues the leafy theme.

Jerk tofu kebabs with chewy grilled plantain and succulent sweet potato were not as fiery or aromatic as expected, but pleasing nevertheless, with gingery ribbons of raw courgette and carrot adding vitality. A special of white bean falafel worked well with olive, sun-dried tomato and caper dressing, although the latter was far too oily.

The wine list is vegan and organic, but even so seems overpriced at £19-plus a bottle, as do the £4 smoothie-style mocktails, though the tie-dye swirls of our mango and coconut number were undeniably pretty. The friendly yet formal service seemed a little pressed on our visit, but the restaurant wasn't full.