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The grand dame of Primrose Hill sits comfortably on her laurels, having long been considered one of the capital's most romantic restaurants. More recently, it was the showcase for TV chef Bryn Williams, whose Great British Menu-winning dish of turbot and oxtail has become a menu staple.
A recent refurbishment puts us in mind of a Welsh stately home, with the intimate series of rooms decked in moody blue-greens, black and grey - the colours of Snowdonia in the rain. Service and food have a formality that is more Mayfair than Primrose Hill, but the cooking doesn't quite live up to the prices, and the fiddly presentation seems pretentious rather than elegant.
Wood pigeon with foie gras, cherries and chocolate sounded good, but failed to achieve harmony, thanks in part to having too many cold elements on the plate: the best element was the little pastry parcel of shredded pigeon. Do less, achieve more, might be our advice - yet the straightforward special, of chicken and mushroom raviolo with chicken broth, wasn't on the money either, lacking flavour.
A tiny scoop of cheesecake was overwhelmed by fresh strawberries, jelly cubes, basil, meringues and honeycomb - about three ingredients too many. Carefully cooked apricot soufflé with dark chocolate sorbet made some amends, but, overall, there are better ways to spend £120.
Sorry, booking is not available at the moment.
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Lunch served noon-2.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-3pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm daily
Main courses £11.50-£25. Set meal (lunch Mon-Fri; 6-7pm daily) £16 2 courses. £20 3 courses; (lunch Sat, Sun) £20 2 courses, £25 3 courses
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 5, garden ), Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Booking essential, Separate room for parties ( seats 20 )I am a fan of fine dining but can't stand the haughtiness that come along with it. Unfortunately this restaurant is one of them, the two waiters that did serve us were guilty of this.
Luckily the manager's charm did rescue it greatly, so did the food and the ambience and the convenient location of the rest. thus I give it a four star.
Definitely, an AFFORDABLE restaurant if you are willing to experience 'fine' dining or what I call 'middle-class dining'.
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