Painted Heron

A Cheyne Walk treasure, this discreet restaurant has deservedly built up a fan club of Chelsea residents, who come here for the adventurous menu inspired by classic culinary tradition. Dishes are well-thought through and carefully executed - if occasionally eyebrow-raising. Along with the staples, expect the likes of chilli-rosemary nan, or smoked chicken scented with southern spices, or even tandoori monkfish paired with rhubarb. An outstanding seafood platter included such stars as a mini dosa (rice and lentil pancake) filled with juicy flaked crab, and a lovely, lightly fried sea bass fillet kissed with coriander, green chilli and lime paste. Mains aren't usually as memorable; chicken breast stuffed with pickled limes, simmered in a browned onion-ginger masala with chickpeas, had too many discordant flavours. Strawberries, of all things, were given an extreme makeover to produce a surprisingly tasty curry; the berries, simmered in their own juice, were spiked with a kick of chilli and ginger and sharpened with lime: a splendid match for steamy lemon rice. On our visit, service needed to be more switched on, to match the quality of food. Check out the Sunday brunches for a well-priced taster of what's on offer.