Roka

Roka still impresses with its mastery of the robata grill, which dominates the capacious dining room. It's a swish spot (thanks to acclaimed Tokyo design team Super Potato), with plenty of exotic hardwoods on display and floor-to-ceiling glass windows that open on to the street in good weather (the outdoor tables are much sought after). It's a noisy place when full, however, which is often.

Highlights of the menu, which is split into types of dishes rather than courses, are the grilled items. Order the inch-thick scallops, peppery and sweet from the mix of shiso cress, a slick of soy and a dollop of wasabi cream, or satisfyingly crisp and umami-packed chicken wings with sea salt and lime.

It can be difficult to categorise the rest of the menu, which meanders from tokusen ('specially chosen'), featuring the likes of yellowtail sashimi with truffle yuzu dressing, to 'Roka dishes' of creamy, risotto-like rice hotpots and black cod dumplings.

A butterfish dish from 'salada and tataki', elegantly presented on a long, heavy plate, featured wonderfully tender pieces of fish wrapped around white asparagus stalks and doused with a sharp yuzu dressing.

Desserts, which fuse Japanese and French traditions and ingredients courtesy of pastry chef Juliene Phillipe, are some of the best in town, and worth saving room for. Service has improved since our last visit, with cheerful staff working the packed room with ease.