The Wallace

Peyton & Byrne's operation at the Wallace is well known for its elegant afternoon teas, served in the museum's attractive glass-roofed courtyard. Less commonly known is the fact you can also eat here on a Friday and Saturday night; on our visit, only a handful of tables were filled. Unfortunately, the restaurant's charms by day appear to be its downfall by night. Being ushered in through closed-up galleries felt a little creepy, and the garden-furniture seating was uncomfortable by the end of the evening.

The menu reads well, including a selection of fruits de mer and rustic terrines, but everything we tried was disappointing. Sea bass had been drowned in a pungent marinade; when we asked what was in it, the waitress disappeared to ask the chef and never came back. Bayonne ham was served tooth-tinglingly cold, and an oddly flavourless steak came with flaccid chips. Our wine was kept out of reach, leaving us empty-glassed for long stretches. If the Wallace could attract a few more punters, the atmosphere would be much improved, but at present there's little to tempt folk.