Wow Simply Japanese

Smartly informal yet relaxingly untrendy, Wow has seen local competitors come and go over the past few years and remains a popular choice for Crouch Enders.

Consistency in the cooking has been a weak point, but our recent visit saw the kitchen in fine form, the only disappointment being some flabby gyoza. The signature sushi, the Wow roll, sees spicy tuna, avocado, tobiko and rice wrapped in nori and deep-fried for an indulgent combination of soft, crisp and chewy - wow indeed.

Also outstanding was a generous bowl of prawn and vegetable tempura donburi: the seafood was sweet, the batter crisp, the veg tender. Perhaps the rice could have been a little less gluggy, but that's a minor quibble. Springy yaki soba (fried noodles) with chicken and vegetables tasted wholesome and comforting; so too simple cucumber maki and tomago nigiri.

There's an appealing choice of bento boxes, plus main dishes such as grilled black cod with miso, and chicken katsu. Friendly staff went out of their way to be helpful despite the lunchtime rush - even with a generous tip we felt we dined heartily at very persuasive prices.