Zafferano

As Zafferano is located in one of the swankiest parts of town, it's encouraging that the welcome from staff comes with no hint of snootiness. Inside, the dining area - filled with the scent of fresh flowers and furnished with brightly striped seat covers - projects a relaxing rather than a ritzy image. Giorgio Locatelli helped propel this restaurant to its peak, before opening his own place, but British chef Andy Needham hasn't let standards slip since taking over.

The mantra here is all about sourcing the best ingredients; much is flown from Italy on the day of serving. Take our simple octopus salad paired with potatoes and a few taggiasche olives: so fresh you could almost taste the sun. The pasta dishes are always hard to resist, and pappardelle with pig's cheek and a hint of saffron was top drawer.

The kitchen resists the temptation to complicate things, so a juicy pan-fried veal cutlet arrived with just artichokes and potato purée. Desserts such as vanilla panna cotta with strawberries and basil sugar are lovely treats too. The only downside is that prices have crept steadily upwards (though the set menu is good value); unnecessarily high wine premiums can take the shine off dining here.