Restaurant at St Paul's

If you're expecting a florid interior, the simplicity of the formal restaurant in the crypt of St Paul's Cathedral could prove a little disappointing. Vaulted ceilings and a bit of tapestry are the only elements suggesting church or history: otherwise, it's reminiscent of the sort of brasserie restaurants found in market towns - contemporary chairs and black placemats alongside heritage-green hues and a country dresser-style waiters' station.

However, that suits a menu that does its best to showcase the garden (or, rather, allotment) of England. Yes, there is a smattering of parmesan, olives and truffle, but the overall impression is of Suffolk bacon, heritage vegetables, farmhouse cheddar and cider.

Best of our dishes was a small tart of artichoke and watercress - a surprising combination that didn't resort to quiche-y custard to unify the differing textures of the veg. Grey mullet with apple, fennel and purple potato salad was a good tasting combination let down by undercooked potatoes.

Desserts suited the season: daintily presented fruit and cream concoctions, rather than rib-sticking puds. Service looked the part, but was less efficient than it could have been, and although the room was by no means full (a mix of quiet City workers and tourists), the wait for dishes was over-long.