Trullo

Blessing or curse? Trullo's connection with Jamie Oliver's Fifteen (head chef Tim Siadatan was an early graduate) meant that it was never going to be allowed to evolve at its own pace. It went from opening (in June 2010) to booked solid within weeks, attracting patrons from far and wide. This has stopped the crowd and mood feeling local, but not the restaurant's approach.

Enthusiastic, solicitous staff behave as if they really care about having you back (on our visit, at least; though not always if reports are to be believed) and prices are fair, at good gastropub level. The short, daily-changing menu marries rustic Italian cooking with British ingredients, big colours and a little kitchen invention.

In a July cold snap, we were offered grilled ox heart with borlotti beans and salsa rossa (distinct flavours that fused beautifully), alongside bruschetta with English peas, mint and coppa di parma. Pasta - tagliatelle with Scottish girolles, and pappardelle with beef-shin ragu - was glossy, with bite, and mackerel nicely charcoal-grilled. Caramel panna cotta is halfway to becoming a classic, its creamy taste and texture cut by dense, sharp caramel.

A panzanella, though, was poor, the ingredients indistinctly mushed into a tart dressing; we also had problems with a carafe of quite indifferent Morellino di Scansano.

The ground-floor dining room makes a decent stab at inhabiting a difficult space; decor is unpretentious, with large windows to the street, exposed pipes and factory-style light fittings.

In 2012, Trullo converted its basement space into a cocktail bar and restaurant, Trullo Downstairs. Food is delivered from the main restaurant kitchen and is similar in style, but focuses on smaller, sharing plates. It tends to be easier to get a walk-in spot here than in the heavily booked main room.