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By now Londoners know what to expect from proprietors Russell Norman and Richard Beatty, the dynamic duo behind many of London's hippest restaurants Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino and Da Polpo - all critically well received and hugely popular. All serve 'small plates' menus and pulsate with an edgy coolness that keeps the crowds queuing to get in. All share an aesthetic that's studiedly NYC Lower East Side: bare brick, pressed tin ceiling tiles, exposed-filament light bulbs, and good-looking, clued-up staff.
Each in this group has its schtick. Polpo and siblings were loosely based on a Venetian-style bacaro; Spuntino reinterpreted Italian-American food. At Mishkin's it's a take on the Jewish-American 'New York deli'. The Polpo DNA is evident straightaway, from the crush at the door to the zinc-topped bar inhabited by people who look more Shoreditch than Slough.
On first impression, the attention to design detail is excellent. The salt- and pepper-shakers are just like the ones you see in every US diner, as are the plastic water jugs placed on each table. The Formica tabletops and banquette seating look very Stateside too. The menu, divided into sandwiches, meatballs, all-day brunch, all-day supper; and salads, sides and extras is on-cue, and all the Jewish deli standbys that a homesick New Yorker could crave are here: chopped liver, lox and bagels, latkes with soured cream, and salt beef with mustard and pickles.
A Reuben sandwich is a big, overstuffed beast with layers of (usually) corned beef, sauerkraut and swiss cheese topped with tangy Russian dressing, wrapped between two supple pieces of seeded, chewy-crusted rye bread. The best can move the toughest New York cabbie to tears. The Mishkin's version uses pastrami (which is smoked) rather than corned beef (unsmoked); the meat was on the lean side, but flavourful enough, but I couldn't taste the dressing. The bread wasn't the caraway-studded bread that perfectly offsets this sandwich's flavours, and it was over-toasted, panini-style, which detracted from the texture. Good, but not great.
There are as many recipes and definitions of the knish as there are cooks, but it's a kind of savoury pie (although there are sweet versions too). At the risk of oversimplifying, there are two main types: square and round. Square knishes, with thin dough that's often stuffed with mashed potato and onion, are usually deep-fried. The version at Katz's Delicatessen on the Lower East Side (if you've seen 'When Harry Met Sally', you'll recognise it as the setting of the famous fake-orgasm, "I'll-have-what-she's-having" scene) do a version that many New Yorkers think of as definitive. Round knishes are usually baked and can be stuffed with all sorts of meat, fish or veg. The Mishkin's baked knish was a more Uptown affair - a cute, dough-wrapped pie with the potato, fish and spinach stuffing poking out of the top, and served with a parsley sauce (which tasted more of uncooked flour than parsley). I wasn't quite as keen to have what my friend was having.
We were on better footing with the desserts. A blintz is a kind of thin pancake, and the Mishkin's version - stuffed with apples and raisins and topped with a billow of lightly whipped cream - was satisfyingly tart and sweet. Bananas Foster, a 1970s dinner party fave in the US, tasted the part. Buttery fried bananas are laced with rum and toffee sauce, served hot, with a melting blob of vanilla ice cream on top. Presentation-wise, it wasn't up to my mum's standard (admittedly her version may have been a bit OTT - she insisted on flambéing hers before serving) but it tasted good.
I half-expected our waitress to ask "yeah, whaddaya want?" as she clutched her notepad and pulled a pencil from behind her ear; the service in New York delis can be brusque, but is usually efficient. At Mishkin's we experienced lost and forgotten orders, and bill mishaps - forgiveable if delivered with a smile or an apology, or the sense of caring for customers that we'd noted in the Polpo siblings, but on this oocasion notably absent. Halfway through the evening, the lights were suddenly turned down and we were plunged into such Stygian darkness that we could barely see our plates; the music was so loud that we had to shout into each others' ears.
The atmosphere and attitude at Mishkin's left us feeling processed, rather than nourished - as you often do in chain restaurants. We felt as though the staff wanted us in and out as quickly as possible, to make way for the next bums on seats. Could Mishkin's be the one that marks the shift from 'restaurant group' to 'restaurant chain'? We hope not. This is a fun place to pop in for a cocktail and nibble, but if you're looking for an enjoyable, relaxed dining experience, eat elsewhere.
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What is 'following'?020 7240 2078
Meals served 11am-11.30 Mon-Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun
Main courses £3-£12
Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children admitted, Booking advisableLovely decor and okay menu - would be average at best in NY. Quite unpleasant experience with guy in charge of seating, he was rude and arrogant and we didn't feel very welcome. Will not visit again
Delicious dinner the other night - and on a Monday the noise level was much more mellow. The new chicken/leek/tarragon knish on the menu was a triumph: with its own jug of creamy mushroom sauce on the side. Generous portions of market greens and mushy peas. The only disappointment was that they'd run out of a cheesecake special, but they've promised it will soon be a regular on the otherwise rather short dessert menu. Hurrah for that!
The Reuben seems to have been much improved, as it was crammed with layers of deliciously melting pastrami. However when it arrived, in its enormity it towered embarrassingly over my fellow diners' fun-size meals, which led to a certain level of food envy and bad feeling among the group. Portion sizes could be adjusted for certain items - even if it meant raising the price. Perhaps a better place for lunch than dinner, but the quality of food and the atmosphere were very good.
Thank you Mishkins!
Amazing food, great lay out and staff you just want to chat with all night.
Yummy lunch had with fellow NY'ers on a Sunday afternoon. Milkshakes, Reuben, and onion rings were very good. loved the decor
Very average food (like going round for dinner with a friend who can't really cook but has decided to do a NY Jewish themed meal without a proper cookbook) . Good atmosphere though and friendly staff.
Popped in to check it out this afternoon and an hour later and with a heavy heart I had to leave but would have stayed for another one or even two hours if I could have done.... friendly helpful staff; great, simple & yummy Yiddish/NYC style food; amazing cocktails; good coffee and a fabulous atmosphere and decor. If only they had a proper Yiddish/NYC style store next door where I could buy some great Knish, cream cheese and bagels I could give up on my 'must move to NYC' pipe dream.....
Where is the meat?
Two wafer-thin slices of meat – and you're calling this a Reuben.
It's more sauerkraut than meat. And it's more bread than anything else.
If I wanted a loaf of bread, I would have gone to a bakery.
Are you joking?
Marks and Spencer makes pre-packed Ham sandwiches with more meat than this thing!
I've never seen such a stingy sandwich, let alone a Reuben.
A place like this would be laughed out of existence in New York, New Jersey – or any state in America for that matter.
Shame on you Mishkin's
What a let down... I will never return again.
Ok - I promised a definitive review of Mishkins and here it is! Having grown up on Jewish food and also sampled some of the best in New York I feel well qualified in providing an honest review. I'm also very forgiving when it comes to food places because, well, mainly because I love food!
Mishkins when you enter isn't as cosy or as 'warm' as their beautifully shot website photos would have you believe. It's a little faux 'old' and unfortunately doesn't quite work, the interior is a little confused.
Firstly contrary to comments here the staff were really quite lovely. We hadn't a booking but we offered either a table or sharing a booth with an elderly gentlemen which was fine.
The good - the Matzo ball soup! This was pretty good although why they put herbs in the matzo ball is beyond me because it ruined it! My friend ordered the chopped liver, he said it was ok. My pastrami Reuben though was pretty bad. Tasteless pastrami almost the same you'd find in a packet M&S sandwich, stuffed into a mush of tasteless dressing / sauerkraut in between two thick chewy toasted breads. UGH.
I sat there thinking 'How could they get it so wrong?!?!?'. Visit Katz's in New York and you'll just laugh at what they're trying to pass off as 'Jewish' food in Mishkins.
Then the bill.
It's overpriced, period. £40 for a sandwich, chopped liver, soup and two coffees?!
So in summary - I wouldn't waste your cash or time at Mishkins. There's no atmosphere to speak of, the food is poor, the prices way too high. What a total and utter dissappointment.
Right - I've been to Katz's deli a few times and will post a definitive review of Mishkins because I grew up on this food and it will be a YES or a NO, quite simple. They will either get it right or not. Back in a few days and i'll let you know!
The staff ruined this for me, unhelpful and borderline arrogant, even trying book a table was met with a sense that we'd inconvenienced them and that we should be lucky to get a table there.
Went with the girls the other night and must say that I was very happy with the food and our waiter, but totally disappointed with the manager and his behaviour, he was very rude when it was time to pay and this totally ruined our, before that very pleasant, experience.
This is not the type of behaviour you expect from someone running the restaurant.
This is what to expect if you spend most of the money on the decor, much less on the food [not Kosher therefore not authentic] and hardly any on the staff - 'never mind the quality, just feel the width.' As always you only get what you pay for. For real Kosher food in town go to Reubens in Baker Street - everything else is window-dressing.
Expensive. Sandwich £9 which my son said was quite good. I had chicken soup £5.The portion was very small. Not so good. Had an unusal taste. Certainly not as good as mine. The bill came to £15.75 (12and a half % service added on). I had no problem with this. However I had a major problem with the fact that I gave £20 note and waited a while for my change. WhenI asked the waitress for my change she had the audacity to say she thought I said don't worry about it (meaning they will keep the change!!!). No words crossed my lips when I passed over the money!! Nice try, but I am on the ball. How many others have fallen for this. Not a good customer tactic!!! We will NOT be going there again.
It's a shame but they aim low, and don't even get there.
The place is lovely to look at. As you turn the corner and glimpse the facade your spirits will be raised. As you enter, the place feels warm and welcoming. The staff are plentiful and milling around happily. A scan through the menu and you're guaranteed to find something that tickles your fancy. But you'll probably just end up excitedly pointing at something wafting past, on it's way to another table and ask for that.
Then the food arrives...
Having lived in New York, the reason New York style deli food is so simple is because the ingredients are fresh. The bread is not supposed to be stale, the meat is not supposed to be dry...
There are countless little things that are missing, each a corner cut which tarnishes the effect slightly more. The place is nice, the staff are good but overall you'll feel like you've been packed in and taken for a very expensive sandwich.
Simple food in a relaxed atmosphere shouldn't be that hard to achieve, but Mishkins doesn't manage it.
Love this place!! About time someone opened a cool jewish deli!!
I absolutely love mishkins, how many places can you go where you know it's going to be an incredible evening, have a laugh and banter with the staff, eat great food and come away happy? Notting hill is crying out for somewhere like this. My only regret is they didnt come here!
"I'll-have-what-she's-having" As the plates fly past me and I grab the nearest waitress to ask what was that??? Actually forget telling me, just get it to my table!!
I can't seem to get enough of this place, its been open for a week and I have been 5 times.
I myself am also slightly jew-ish, just like Mishkins, my mother converted, but my Jewish Grandmother made some pretty mean chicken soup in her heyday, and I know if Grandma was still alive, and I took her to Mishkins she would have absolutely of loved the place (although she may of made a few comments about the tattoos on the waitresses). But then of course, I would have taken her at lunch.
The evenings are for me and my girlfriends, when the blinds are down and the music is cranked up, this place is like some hip downtown New York film. From the cocktails, to the overly cool clientele, I do not want to leave... its a scene with great food, a slight Norman stamp... but hes broken out of his own Polpo mould. What next?????
Has Russell Nornan really made Covent Garden cool again?
Move over tourist, I think he may have done...
I beg to differ on the Reuben! It's my favorite in town!
This is my new best hang out, maybe because the staff is so sexy, or because the portions are so generous in real NY like fashion. The diamond fizz is amazing too.
Simply in a league of its own in London. Food is good to very good but never great, but that isn't the point. Young, fun staff, great music and vibe, not for old people (my wife's parents HATED it). Love love love it and can't wait to go back.
Decided to check out the new Mishkins as i am a big fan of Polpo and was very dissapointed. we booked a table for 2 at 1:45pm on a very busy saturday and had to wait 10minutes for our table to be ready which wasn't a problem. We were seated without being offered drinks or menus for 10 minutes which we then asked for. Our waitress took our order at the same time as the table next to us and their food come out long before ours did.We asked how long our food would be and the lady running the pass said that they were very busy and it wouldn't be too long, we waited 35 minutes for one chicken soup which was border line cold and tasteless. When you wait 45 minutes for 2 salt beef sandwhiches you grow an expectation that they must be amazing, we were dissapointed again.
i do understand that Mishkins has just opened and there are always teething problems but when i looked around the restaurant there were many unhappy customers. it seemed as though there were to many staff floating around and not one person giving any form of direction or managing the space. I do understand that sometimes there are bad services but during the first couple of weeks of opening there should always be a manger floating around making sure everything is running smoothly.
I did absolutely love the interior and will return in the future.
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