Maroush I

One of London's longest-running Lebanese restaurants, Maroush has been going strong for more than three decades, and the company now runs 14 venues including Ranoush Juice and Beirut Express. The enticements at this original location are the musicians and belly dancing, which make evenings in the cavernous basement a riotous affair. For a less over-the-top experience of the excellent food, visit the upstairs lunch counter, where you can watch the chefs at work.

The extensive menu lists nearly 60 meze: from favourites like smoky baba ganoush and expertly prepared falafel, to intriguing options such as lamb's tongues, kidneys and lamb tartare. The lunch special of superb starters (zingy tabouleh, fresh flatbread, greaseless sambousek pastries filled with creamy feta), plus shawarma or mixed grill, was too much to finish.

Service was quite formal and attentive; we were charmed with complimentary baklava and mint tea at the end of the meal. The Maroush empire has proved a hit across the board, attracting Arab diners, tourists and the inevitable high-spirited groups. Given the top-notch food and the classy surroundings of gleaming marble and heavy white linens, it's easy to understand its longevity.