Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
Dining under the soaring ceilings, original green tiles and industrial-sized chains of a defunct hydraulic power station is part of the appeal here. Tables are set among old machinery that’s softened to magical effect with dozens of candles after dusk. The unique space also features a bright, airy entrance dining area that’s good for lunches, and a cavernous, spooky art gallery at the back. A small selection of art magazines and books completes the Wapping Project’s triple purpose. The place attracts an urbane crowd.
The daily changing, seasonal menu is broadly Modern European. Scallop carpaccio with salty, tangy slices of lime-spritzed peach was a high point. To follow, onglet with roast potatoes was characteristically straightforward, as was a pea and yoghurt pilaf, which nonetheless could have been enhanced by another element on the plate.
Tempting cocktails are offered before and after the meal; a banana split martini in place of dessert was like a tasty adult milkshake. Prices are steep and the food on this occasion was little above average, but the spectacular setting garners bonus points since an evening in such an unusual venue is bound to stick in the memory.
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