One of the smaller café-style eateries on the High Street, Yami is nevertheless light-filled and comfortable. The cosy little nooks, created by wooden partitions between tables, are popular with the young clientele – who come in groups and pairs, pulling up seats and knocking back soju to counteract the fiery cooking. Service is equally young and chirpy; our waitress was all smiles all night, offering concise recommendations for the uninitiated. A plate of well-seasoned, almost smoky chicken gizzards was a textural delight, the gizzards fresh and pleasingly crunchy. Soo doo boo chigae, a spicy soft tofu stew with egg, was perfectly done: soft tofu curds melting in the mouth, with the bold, deeply savoury stew as a backdrop, and the richness of just-set egg yolk bringing the two together. Our next dish was less successful; slices of pork belly marinated in spicy chilli paste, grilled on the barbecue in front of us, consisted mainly of chewy fat and an overly sweet marinade. Still, people clearly return here, no doubt in part due to the sweet and welcoming staff.