Zara

Time Out says

Tue Jul 3 2012

At its best Zara is a bonhomous neighbourhood joint producing Anatolian specialities and popular grills for loyal locals. Lunchtime deals help keep the weekday trade steady and, with the french doors pulled back, the front room is a pleasant spot to enjoy the bustle of South End Green.

The sky-lit rear section is more intimate with its shelf of books, decorative musical instruments and gilt mirrors, but the advantage is diminished by its proximity to the loos and kitchen; the terracotta floor tiles are noisy too. We felt a little forgotten back there, but staff were pleasant enough.

The workaday set meze is reasonable value, yet offers no surprises; try supplementing it with tender grilled curls of squid in lip-smacking pan gravy, or the moist, deliciously spicy sausages. We particularly enjoyed the thin-shelled, deep-fried köfte with juicy lamb interior. Larger appetites can follow with main courses such as islim kebab (diced lamb wrapped with aubergine, peppers and tomatoes), güveç chicken (baked with vegetables) and kuzu firin (baked lamb).

Turkish vintages are the best choices on the wine list and not expensive; full-bodied Çankaya (made with indigenous Turkish grapes emir and narince) is a reliable choice.