Alfredo’s, then a little S&M (the former Sausage & Mash café, that is): as Islington landmarks go, this position is a prime cut, now carved out by Meat People. The 1920s Grade II-listed building with its tiled ceiling, wooden panelling and steel-framed windows still evokes the ocean-liner era, even with its vibrant yellow banquettes.
The current trend for steak and burger places means that competition in now hotter than a Josper grill. Meat People is no Hawksmoor or Meat Liquor, though – it’s a neighbourhood joint.
We opted for the Meat People Platter, a board bearing a selection of their main courses: slow-grilled beef short ribs, onglet steak and Iberico pork. The standout piece was the onglet, tender and yielding and cooked medium-rare as requested. The other two cuts had had a less profitable time on the grill. The pork was too blackened – the charring overpowered rather than offset the cut’s underlying flavour. The rib meat required a few chews too many, but the chimichurri garnish was good.
Beetroot and a handful of broad beans, although incongruously cold, nicely accompanied the pan-fried sea bream. The most exciting part of the dish was the huacaina sauce, a Peruvian mix that included white cheese and yellow chilli.
This is not a Latin American restaurant, but the chef happens to be Argentinian. A South American influence continued into the light desserts. Slices of caramelised banana were joined by a creamy scoop of dulce de leche ice cream, and slivers of lime rin