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Episode one
When Heston Blumenthal announces that he’s taken command of a galleon in Brixham harbour, called it ‘HMS Chippy’ and installed vinegar-laden cannons on board, it sounds like he’s finally lost it.
Of course, it’s actually just another one of his meticulous and extremely ambitious projects, complete with a quail’s egg-spouting monster of the deep, mushy pea ice cream and an edible rock pool. Focusing on fish and chips, this first episode of ‘Heston’s Great British Food’ goes through the usual rigmarole of visiting labs, creating weird concoctions and talking to historians, but as always it’s all about the finished spectacle.
Heston’s ingenious solutions to non-existent or self-created problems are always entertaining, but even he agrees at one point that he might have gone too far – a rare admission. His skill is impressive and his passion infectious, but sometimes it’s hard not to shake your head at the absurdity of it all.