Named for the low-slung tables used in traditional dining, Soban serves one of the best Korean meals in Los Angeles that doesn’t involve a tabletop grill. Instead, this no-frills eatery offers the city’s best assortment of banchan and first-rate ganjang gejang, a.k.a. soy-marinated raw crab. Though service may be brusque, no other Korean seafood spot can top Soban’s buttery, sweet crab marinated in a blend of green chilies, white onion and soy sauce. The dozen-odd banchan plates that come with each meal burst with flavor, texture and painstaking attention to detail, from the cabbage kimchi to the seasoned acorn jelly. You’ll also find excellent galbi jjim—braised short ribs—and a fiery black cod stew. Newcomers should note Soban’s early close (8:30pm is the last call for orders). If you can, we suggest making a reservation: Everyone from the late Jonathan Gold to Parasite’s Bong Joon-ho has dined at Soban—so unless you’re visiting on a weekday afternoon, you’ll very likely have to wait for a table otherwise.
One of the densest neighborhoods in the city, Koreatown is home to the nation’s most diverse array of Korean restaurants, which includes plenty of Korean barbecue.The area is also home to plenty of nightclubs, dive bars, coffee shops and boba shops—in other words, a little bit of everything. Given all that, it should go without saying that finding parking is a major issue, so be prepared to navigate cash-only valets, byzantine mall parking structures and circling around the area if you’re planning to get there by car. (The Metro is also a great option for those coming in from Downtown or Hollywood.)
That being said, all the hassle is worth it in our eyes. Amid all the beautifully preserved 1920s apartment buildings and bilingual signs in both hangul and English, K-town has so much to offer, culinarily speaking, that we had trouble putting together this list. Family-run restaurants that have been around for decades mingle with newer eateries run by a younger generation of Korean Americans, with plenty of international chains looking to plant a flag in the midst of it all. We’ve included the area's best non-Korean eateries, since K-town is also home to a handful of general citywide standouts, as well as Little Bangladesh—which also make it one of best places outside of Artesia to grab South Asian cuisine.