New York City is just rich with restaurant openings. Big, splashy openings with TV-repeat celebrity chefs, intimate neighborhood affairs with quickly-accrued followings that sprawl beyond their geographical boundaries, local hospitality group spots that spin into mini-chains, revivals, out of town arrivals and some that overlap. And, even within that first category, you never know what to expect.
Breeze opened, seemingly quietly, in Greenpoint early last fall. It gained some early local coverage and capsule round-up treatment, but remained more-or-less absent the shattering social media smash some destinations seem to break through right away. That’s the Sichuan restaurant’s first perk: It’s poised just under the radar enough that you can tell your friends, “you might not have heard of this place, but . . .”
You might not have heard of this place, but its hospitality is excellent. Recently arriving on time to a cozy, packed house, parties meeting with glee, and at least one group gathered outside (so somebody’s heard of it) while my date was late (then later and later), I was seated and served a fantastic drink, the Juno ($18), made with a whiskey duo, plum vinegar and lime. It’s a terrific mix of smoky and sweet with half a degree of a welcome medicinal quality like a penicillin. The booze took the edge off of waiting for the rest of my table to arrive, sure, but the unbothered, unrushed nature of the staff sure helped, too.
You might not have heard of this place, but it has plenty of comforting plates to share (or keep to yourself) that you’ll likely wish to revisit later. Its pork soup dumplings with crab roe (4/$10) are both dainty and sound enough to sustain the savory broth inside in advance of slurping, spoon sipping, or the delivery method of your habit. The shrimp variety (4/$10) is similarly wrapped: Breeze knows its dough.
You might not have heard of this place, and the entrees are good, too, though heat-seekers should consider the diced chicken’s stated chili pepper ($24) more of a garnish. It’s unlikely to spark even the most sensitive palate, but it’s still an enjoyable dish of fried chicken bits. And the shredded beef with green chili is exactly as expected, whether you’ve had the familiar, tender strips of both half a hundred times, or this is your first order.
You might not have heard of this place, but I won’t hesitate to return when I’m in the area. I’m looking forward, in fact, to popularing the darling little four-top in the window alcove up front, though I imagine I’d be just at ease at any of the 40-some-odd seats in the narrow, pale-hued space, or at the bar toward the back. And in that event, as Breeze’s popularity grows, I’ll make sure that everybody’s on time.
Vitals
The Vibe: Welcoming, hospitable and lively all at once.
The Food: Broadly billed as Sichuan with terrific dumplings and nice dice chicken and shredded beef.
The Drinks: Great cocktails, including the signature Juno and classic Manhattans and martinis, plus wine and beer.
Breeze is located at 595 Manhattan Avenue. It is open Monday-Thursday from noon-3pm and 5pm-9pm, Friday from noon-3pm and 5pm-10:15pm, Saturday from noon-10:15pm and Sunday from noon-9pm.
