One of the most respected and innovative chefs in town, the eponymous Kei Matsushima is going from strength to strength following the reopening of his restaurant in 2007. A well-deserved Michelin star now guides gastronomes, expense-accounters and well-heeled tourists to his minimalist modern dining room, where the cooking is every bit as discreetly contemporary as the surroundings. Breton crayfish, for instance, might come pan-seared with courgette-flower tempura and a lemon, saffron and fennel coulis. There's also a splendidly calming private dining room, sporting an artfully arranged cluster of wooden cooking utensils and artwork that would be just as at home in a trendy urban spa.
Open 7.30-10pm Mon; noon-2pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Fri; 7.30-10pm Sat.
Disappointing. Creative, but far too expensive for what it served, and the quantity is minimal. The service is pleasant, but very slow, even at lunchtime. Overrated, in my opinion.
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