This 17th-century former cardinal's residence lies down a cobbled alley near piazza Navona. An impressive Baroque stone spiral staircase winds up four floors (there's no lift, but chairs are provided every couple of floors). Rooms are spacious and elegantly decorated with wood floors, heavy drapes and marble bathrooms. The original, wood-beamed ceilings are intact in all rooms, but higher on the top two floors. Breakfast is served in the rooms.