Steve and Cookie’s

Formerly a “restricted” club in the 1930s, which denied entry to nonwhites and women, this zaftig eatery sprawls across multiple rooms and features two fireplaces. Owner Cookie Till is the grande dame of A.C.-area food, and her cuisine honors southern Jersey Shore heritage while staying current. Kick off your meal with the best lobster mac and cheese we’ve ever tasted, then move on to an aromatic bouillabaisse or a luscious meat loaf in onion gravy with mushrooms, peas, carrots and smashed potatoes.