It’s the same family as Lockhart, Texas’s famed Black’s BBQ—twins Michael and Mark, nephews of third-generation founding pitmaster Kent Black, run the cooking here—but they insist it’s not the same product. The brisket in particular, though it uses the same simple salt and pepper rub, is almost chocolate-y in its richness—delicious, but realistically an entrée-dessert combo. Almost everything else—down to the sides, the way they’re displayed cafeteria-style, the checkered table clothes, you name it—is identical to the Lockhart location. Only three times bigger. As a rule of thumb for Central Texas BBQ: the smaller the joint, the better the cookin’.