Baltimore diners heaved a heavy sigh when the beloved restaurant Gnocco closed in 2019 after three years. However, last year, the duo behind that concept brought Mediterranean fare back with the opening of Costiera, the Italian word for "coast." Brian Lavin and Sam White, friends who traveled together through Italy, Spain, and France, bring the food and drinks from these regions to a corner space in Baltimore located, appropriately enough, on the edge of the city’s Little Italy neighborhood.
On a recent Tuesday night, the diverse crowd contained a mix of med students, families, and groups of friends of varying ages. It’s a place where you can wear jeans (or scrubs) or a chic new dress. For a restaurant with just 52 seats, the menu is varied, featuring a range of pastas, meats, seafood, and a wide selection for vegetarians. The melt-in-your-mouth fried squash blossoms are filled with goat cheese and ricotta on a bed of spicy tomato aioli that packs a surprising amount of heat for this diner, who didn’t need to ask for sriracha or crushed pepper flakes. Mop up the garlic and tomatoes in the toothsome gnocchetti sardi, a Sardinian pasta, with Swiss chard, garlic, shrimp, and sausage with their dense whole-wheat focaccia.
The Caesar salad incorporates fennel and celery, which add an extra crunch to your standard formula. You’ll plot your next trip to the restaurant immediately after taking a bite of the dense chocolate Basque cheesecake with Nutella and whipped cream. The drink menu offers half a dozen distinctive cocktails (all of which can be made without alcohol), Italian beers, and wines.
The vibe: Mediterranean oasis with Baltimore charm.
The food: Coastal cuisine from Italy, Spain, and France with an emphasis on fresh pasta and seafood.
The drink: Spritzes, a thoughtful selection of Italian wines, and an assortment of non-alcoholic options.
Time Out tip: In the spirit of ‘aperitivo’, Costiera offers a Mon-Fri happy hour from 4-7pm, featuring $7 spritzes and tasty bar snacks.