KOKO’s a safe pair of hands. The lighting’s warm, the music sits low enough to make decent conversation, and everyone seems a little too well-dressed to be accidental. It’s one of those spots where you can’t tell if it’s a dinner or a night out – which honestly makes it both.The food doesn’t mess around. The sushi is clean and balanced. They don’t overdo the fancy condiments and sauces because they don’t need to, because the fish is incredibly fresh. Dumplings come soft, glossy and perfectly portioned. But it’s the lamb chops – tender and sticky – which are what you end up thinking about the next day. KOKO’s one of those places that don’t bother with a wildly, shockingly inventive menu. It just does everything right without much fanfare. It’s also one of those places where you notice the service right off the bat, because the staff is sharp, quick, and doesn’t need to be prompted. I meant what I said about the place being a safe pair of hands – they won’t let your wine glass sit unfilled.
And yeah, it’s not cheap, but it earns the price. The space feels thought through, and because of that, it’s earned a string of loyal customers. You come here once, tell yourself it’s just for a special occasion, and then you end up coming again because nothing else feels quite as good.